1. A Bolder Peak
Every suit featured here has a peak lapel (rather than a notch). It's a crucial part of the bigger personality of the DB.
2. A Wider Lapel
The rules of double-breasted are different. Get used to a wider lapel than on your single-breasteds. That's part of what gives you that updated 1970s vibe you're after.
3. Six Buttons, of Course
We're classicists on this front: In almost every case, we like a six-button jacket. To see the one exception, check page 175.
4. That Tweaked Shape
The key to the DB's macho look is strong shoulders that taper to a narrow waist. If your jacket looks too boxy, have a tailor take in the sides.
5. A New, Shorter Length
The DB looks fresh once again because designers have modernized the cut, truncating the length of the jacket for this 2011 take on the look.
Suit, $1,820, and shirt, $395, by Simon Spurr. Tie, $68 by Tommy Hilfiger. Shoes, $1,250 by John Lobb. Pocket square by Seize sur Vingt. Watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre.