Balmain Spring/Summer 2012 | The First Collection Of Olivier Rousteing

Matthew Schneier review

The house of Balmain is in new hands, but fans of Christophe Decarnin's moto-roué look won't be disappointed by the first collection from his former assistant Olivier Rousteing. Whether Rousteing stages a farther departure from his boss' example in women's remains to be seen, but for menswear, he hewed close. Trim tux jackets (slightly longer than usual), paneled biker jeans, and leather jackets will always have a place here. New this season is a range of pieces in pastel: tees, scarves, and even those biker jeans now come in ice cream colors (lemon, mint, and orange), mottled to look sun-bleached. Also new: swimwear, printed denim (in an abstract feather pattern that will also figure in the women's Resort collection), and a boxy new jacket shape, shorter and shorn of its lapels.

Balmain to launch more affordable line

Looks as if new creative head Olivier Rousteing was only the beginning of a series of big changes at the French fashion house.
Thanks to a new licensing deal with Italian company Ittierre, a more accessibly priced ready-to-wear range is in the works.
The new line will consist of both men’s and women’s clothes under the name of Pierre Balmain, and while it will be produced by a separate design team, the creations will have to be approved by Rousteing.

Balmain Will Tap Olivier Rousteing to Replace Christophe Decarnin

Following Christophe Decarnin's departure from Balmain earlier this month amid rumors of mental illness, the label was said to be hiring "someone unknown" to replace him. Now it appears that this someone is Olivier Rousteing, Decarnin's deputy designer at Balmain since 2009.
Prior to joining Balmain, Rousteing worked at Roberto Cavalli in Milan for nearly six years. He was born in France, attended fashion school at ESMOD, and speaks several languages. According to sources, he is "a young and promising creative dynamo."
If rumors that Decarnin's absence began in January are true, then Balmain's most recent collection was overseen by Rousteing (with the help of stylist and consultant Melanie Ward), so he's basically been doing this job for a while already. Ward, who was also a logical candidate for the position, will presumably continue her work for the brand. In other words, Balmain probably won't veer from its bank-breaking formula of slashed jeans,and tailored jackets.
An official announcement confirming Rousteing's appointment is expected within a week.