Salvatore Ferragamo Fall/Winter 2011-2012

Peeking through the seams of Salvatore Ferragamo’s latest outing was a nod to the easy cool of the 70′s and a desire to show that menswear can be both masculine and remarkably soft with warm sentiments. Embracing a relaxed pacing of separates and outerwear, fall’s collection boasted dark rich hues of autumn, contrasted against sensational flesh tones. Resonating a refined luxury, carried off with little to no effort, the range quickly turned to a lifestyle, gently touching upon western and militaristic influences. From strong tailored overcoats and suede trousers to buttery soft leather, Salvatore Ferragamo excelled in paying compliments to the heart of their man–robust, personal and adaptive.

Tim Banks review

At Salvatore Ferragamo, Massimiliano Giornetti opened with neutral creams and winter whites, but it was a red herring of sorts. Over the course of his collection, out marched a series of colorful suits—full tone-on-tone looks, in fact, in penny-bright copper, bottle green, and oceanic teal. The driving spirit was the seventies: the slightly boot-cut three-piece suits, acres of lapel, and all the suede. The soundtrack cued up the Doors and Lou Reed. "What I really want to tell is a story of a sensual man," Giornetti said at his studio the day before the show. Sensual it was—sometimes too much so. A few overly literal looks would have been best left back in the seventies. That said, swagger is emerging as this season's Milanese have-to-have, and at Ferragamo it was even built into the shoes: heavy-soled horse-leather boots crisscrossed with buckled straps. "Making the sole heavier is really making the guys walk with more strength and energy in the show," Giornetti explained. Let's say it: They strut.


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